I am on my way to the top when I see it: a cairn of piled-up big stones, painted yellow on top. I have found a riksrøys, a border cairn, marking the border between Norway and Sweden.
Read this article in Norwegian on Arbeidsliv i Norden
I spot several on my trip, but only later I learn that there is a total of 642 risksrøyser along the 1,630 kilometre long border between Norway and Sweden. I also learn that the stone firmly set on the top of the cairn is called a heart stone.
The exact centre of this stone marks the legal national border. As I pass it at a light jog along the path, I’m thinking: I can literally stand with one foot in each country – Sweden and Norway.
Except for the riksrøyser there is no physical border here. No passport control or ID check. I am alone, on my way from one country and into the next.
Across the border for work
If you are in the Meråker and Storlien area, you are crossing a historical and well-marked part of the national border. There are several well-known riksrøyser easily accessible for walkers around here.
One of the most central is Risksrøys 157 – Skurdalsporten.
This is a historic, old border point between Meråker and Jämtland which has been used as a route for centuries, long before the railway and the E14 road were constructed.
Lena Flaten’s grandparents opened Skurdalsporten mountain cabin in 1946, soon after WWII ended. Her grandmother was the driving force on the farm and in the kitchen. Lena Flaten is the third generation to run the mountain cabin.
“I always knew I would be making food. From I was a little girl, I knew I would be a chef.”
Lena Flaten grew up on the farm in Meråker but now lives and works in Storlien in Sweden. There are just over 80 permanent residents in Storlien. When asked whether she is Norwegian or Swedish, she answers:
“I feel Scandinavian. I have one foot in both countries. The border is just on the map. We who live here on the border have access to two fantastic countries.
“Nature is right outside our door, we have mountains and we have clean water in the river,” Lena Flaten tells me when I meet her in Storlien later.
Lives and works in the kingdom of produce
In 2002, Flaten bought the building in Storlien that now houses “Flammans Skafferi”. It was constructed in the 1930s and was first a waffle place and dance hall.
In the 1970s, it changed names to “Flamman” and became a discotheque before being turned into a kindergarten in the 1980s.
When Flaten took over, it became a restaurant and bar again, serving anything from lunches and private dinners to à la carte. It could accommodate around 80 guests and Flaten had several employees.
Financially it went well, but Flaten herself started running out of steam.
“My creativity began to dissipate. I no longer felt the same joy about what I was doing.”
In 2016, it was time to do something new. The place changed name to Flammans Skafferi. The seating was reduced from 80 to 30 and only a few employees remained.
There was a clearer focus on local produce, sustainability and what Flaten calls “relationship food”.
They have close ties to providers, vegetable growers, famers, butchers and fishermen. They also harvest much of their own produce when it is the season for it.
Anything that is not used straight away is processed and conserved in various ways so that the seasonal produce can be used the rest of the year. The menu varies according to the seasons and access to produce.
A pearl in Vest-Jämtland
What made you settle here and even make it profitable?
“Storlien is a fantastic place to live. And, of course, you have to create the right conditions for where you want to live. That’s what I have done.
“I have a fantastic network, friends and colleagues who work according to the same values.
“And life must also be more than work. You have to be able to turn off and gather strength somewhere away from work. I can do that in nature,” says Flaten.
Making a profit is also about having several different strands to the business. They do a lot away from the house, with coursing, workshops, lectures and guided tours.
Manly operating in Sweden
Lena Flaten uses resources from both Norway and Sweden and employs food traditions from both countries. Yet custom regulations do throw up some obstacles.
She would love to buy more from Norwegian producers and work more on the Norwegian side of the border, but she feels rules make it unnecessarily complicated.
“It’s possible to do it, but it’s challenging. The rules are too complicated for us to do that continually. So in the end, we often don’t,” says Flaten.
She has nevertheless chosen not to spend too much energy on getting frustrated by the obstacles.
“I never dig deep into these issues. Instead, I think about what we can do instead.”
A trading centre on the border
Thanks to being near the Norway-Sweden border, Storlien has always been a centre for trade.
Many Norwegians travel to Storlien to “border shop”. Next to the E14 road you find Coop, Eurocash, Apotek Hjärtat, Supergott and Sportringen Outlet, with a joint annual turnover of more than one billion Swedish kroner (€88.6m).
Sometimes, Norwegians who are out border shopping pop into Flammans Skafferi. They have often “googled” that this is a restaurant offering good pizza.
“They are a bit surprised when they come in here. We don’t serve any prober traditional pizza, nor ordinary soda. But most are very content when they leave here.”
Flaten admits that she is not a great fan of the border trade. Yet she does underline that the Storlien businesses depend on each other and that they are good at supporting one another.
“Both permanent residents and cabin owners support the restaurants and cafés in Storlien well. People want all of us to be able to stay in business,” says Flaten.
“The neighbour train”
Did I mention that my plan was to travel by train to these borderlands between Norway and Sweden? But that when I arrived at the Hell train station near Trondheim Airport Værnes, I heard a Tannoy voice declaring “the Train to Storlien is cancelled. There is a bus replacement service”.
The Meråker line is Central Norway’s rail connection to Sweden. The Hell to Storlien section is 70.7 kilometres long and was opened in 1881.
The train connection between Trondheim and Östersund was known as “The Neighbour Train” when it operated as a cross-border rail service between 2002 and 2007. The name has since been used for the passenger service along the Meråker line.
Railway upgrade plans
Fellersrådet Trøndelag and Jämtland Härjedalen is working to increase investment in cross-border transport links. This includes both railway capacity and better protection against landslides and other problems caused by a lack of maintenance.
The transport links are also important for security and emergency preparedness. The Nordic governments have identified the transport corridor as one of four particularly important ones in the Nordic region from a defence perspective.
In September, Fellesrådet brought together representatives from the armed forces, transport authorities and regional stakeholders from Norway, Sweden and Finland for a round-table meeting on the need to upgrade the E14 and the Meråker railway line. The participants signed a joint declaration calling for faster investment.
Fellesrådet is also working to establish more direct train services between Norway and Sweden.
One concrete initiative came in September, when the commercial train operator Snälltåget conducted a trial journey between Malmö, Stockholm, Östersund and Trondheim. The company is now considering whether the service could begin operating as early as summer 2027.
Read more (in Swedish and Norwegian):
Calls for upgrades to transport infrastructure between Norway and Finland
First passenger train from Sweden to Trondheim on the Meråker railway line – a historic day!
On the Swedish side, the line to Storlien has been electrified since 1945. After many years of demand, the Norwegian section was also electrified in 2025.
This opened up for possible direct trains between Trondheim and Sweden with no need to change trains.
But the desire for new train connections has so far not been realised. In the autumn of 2025, the Norwegian Railway Directorate turned down applications for both Trondheim-Sundsvall and Trondheim-Stockholm, citing insufficient demand.
Swedish border commuters
My bus replacement service takes me through Meråker. The municipality is less than an hour’s drive from Værnes airport, only 25 kilometres from Storlien and even fewer kilometres from the border.
The Trøndelag labour market
Characterised by high employment and low unemployment. The county’s unemployment rate is at around 2 per cent.
There are major recruitment challenges and a strong need for skilled workers in healthcare and social care, industry, construction, IT and technology. The skills gap is particularly noticeable in the smaller municipalities.
Major sectors in the labour market include technology and education, the public sector and healthcare, aquaculture and coastal industries.
Sources: The Norwegian Labour and Welfare Administration (NAV), the Confederation of Norwegian Enterprise (NHO) and others.
Meråker municipality has fewer than 2,500 inhabitants. It used to be a big industry community. Today, the municipality itself is one of the biggest employers. Mayor of Meråker, Gøran Sandvik, is from the Centre Party.
He is happy that Swedes come across the border to work in the municipality. But he believes a well-functioning common labour market must have good infrastructure.
“If you want to live in Sweden but work at Værnes, for instance, it is nice if the train is running and the road is in good condition,” Sandvik says.
He says that the municipality focuses on strengthening cooperation across the border, also when it comes to municipal preparedness.
A shared history
I cross the Norwegian-Swedish border on my bus replacement service. Through the window I can see the customs station. There is no control. No one is getting stopped.
3.5 kilometres from the border is Storlien station. At 592 metres above sea level, it is Sweden’s highest railway station.
I find my seat in the waiting Swedish Railways train. I am going further, but plan to return to Storlien one day later.
The train goes past Åre, which is considered Storlien’s “big brother” when it comes to ski resorts in Sweden.
Less than two hours later, I am in Östersund, in time for the annual Storsjöyran – “the festival unlike any other”. It attracts a large audience, Swedes and Norwegians alike.
For many people from Trøndelag, Östersund is holiday destination number one, summer and winter.
“Jämtland Härjedalen in Sweden and Trøndelag in Norway share a history and have long traditions for cooperation. For us, it’s natural to travel across the border to do business or holiday,” says Anna Halvarsson.
She is head of operations at the Fellesrådet Trøndelag – Jämtland Härjedalen – a non-commercial cross-border council. I meet her for a coffee at one of the many busy cafés in Östersund city centre.
Invited people to a jobs fair
Halvarsson has worked for Fellesrådet for Trøndelag – Jämtland Härjedalen since 2024.
She heads a small team made up of herself and one and a half full-time positions. The half position is based in Trondheim/Trøndelag. A good thing given the council’s remit, Halvarsson believes.
Fellesrådet for Jämtland Härjedalen and Trøndelag
A non-profit organisation bringing together public-sector stakeholders on both sides of the Swedish–Norwegian border.
Its members include Trøndelag County Authority, Region Jämtland Härjedalen and municipalities in Trøndelag and Jämtland Härjedalen.
Works to strengthen cooperation between Trøndelag in Norway and Jämtland Härjedalen in Sweden.
Works to promote regional development, infrastructure, business, culture and education across the national border.
Is one of the Nordic Council of Ministers’ cross-border committees.
“It’s our task to create conversations between politicians on both sides of the border, to create meeting places for stakeholders and identify important questions for cross-border cooperation,” Halvarsson says.
Preparedness and security, communication, infrastructure, businesses, the labour market and skills are all issues that are important to the cross border cooperation.
In her experience, there is a lot of interest in the job they are doing, and both regions see great benefits from strengthening cooperation across the border.
Fellesrådet Trøndelag – Jämtland Härjedalen wants to make it easier for Norwegians and Swedes to find jobs on the other side of the border.
That is why one of the council’s events this year was a fair in Åre on 24 September where employers and jobseekers could meet.
“We share a common labour market with great opportunities, yet many don’t know what is on the other side of the border. At the fair, we created real opportunities for employers to meet people looking for work or who were considering to study more,” says Anna Halvarsson.
Present at the “Border Careers” fair were around 50 representatives from various businesses, universities and public authorities, including NAV, the Swedish Public Employment Service and the border authorities. Around 130 people attended.
“From what we heard, people got actual jobs offers. Many useful contacts were made, and the event had a really positive atmosphere,” says Halvarsson.
Focus on young people
Getting young people involved is also important for the cross-border cooperation. A youth summit is being planned.
“It’s important to involve young people and increase their interest in cross-border cooperation,” says Halvarsson.
The Jämtland Härjedalen labour market
Characterised by very low unemployment rates, which is stable at 4.5 to 5.2 per cent.
Jämtland is one of the Swedish counties with the greatest unmet demand for labour. This is largely due to small, local labour markets combined with an ageing population. There are major shortages of workers in healthcare and social care, schools and education, IT and technology.
Major employers include the public sector and the tourism and hospitality industry, while the region also has a high proportion of entrepreneurs and small businesses.
Sources: The Swedish Public Employment Service (Arbetsförmedlingen) and articles in the Swedish media.
Even though young people are often associated with curiosity and a desire to explore, this is not necessarily the case when it comes to education and work on the other side of the border.
Young Swedes consider Uppsala or Lund to be a more natural destination than Trondheim, according to Halvarsson.
“They don’t go to Trondheim. I don’t think they even think about it. They have no idea that this might be an option,” she says.
“They travel across the border on holiday, but to consider living in another country seems to be difficult. It is very close geographically, yet there are several barriers, including different education systems and the language.”
She hopes closer collaboration between universities on both sides of the border might make it more natural for young people to choose to study in the neighbouring country.
Politician: “There are so many strange things”
Getting a dialogue going between regional politicians is one important part of the remit of Fellesrådet for Trøndelag – Jämtland Härjedalen.
I call one of these politicians in Norway to find out what she thinks of the cross-border cooperation.
Guri Heggem is a county politician representing the Centre Party and deputy chair of the county committee for transport. She is also on the board for Fellesrådet for Trøndelag – Jämtland Härjedalen.
Heggem believes the relationship with Sweden is important both for developing the border region and for security and preparedness. The fact that Sweden is now a Nato member has made this cooperation even more important.
Heggem has lived in Røros since 2003, a place only 40 kilometres from the Swedish border.
“It’s important to see the border as an opportunity and not an obstacle,” says Heggem.
Yet there are still many practical barriers that make it more difficult to live, work and access services across the border.
She highlights the fact that workers must navigate different regulations and approval requirements. A Swedish electrician cannot, for instance, simply drive across the border and do a job in Norway, or the other way around.
“There are so many strange things. Many border barriers are linked to commuting for work. It should be simpler,” she says.
She also points to a health service collaboration between Røros and Västra Härjedalen, where the distance to Røros can be shorter for Swedish patients than it is to Swedish health services. Still, a Norwegian ambulance cannot simply drive across the border.
She would like to see new ways of removing border barriers, for instance by trialling “free municipalities”.
“This could be a way of finding out which barriers exist and how we can fix them,” says Heggem.
Meeting “the border people”
I leave Östersund and return to Storlien on the train. At the station, I am being introduced to Roger Albers who lives in Storlien where he works as a guide for the mountain hotel.
“Welcome to Norway,” he says with a smile.
“Because you know that if you had come here before the year 1751, this was Norway,” explains Albers.
The 1751 Border Treaty, also known as the Strömstad Treaty, established the border between Norway and Sweden. Storlien became Swedish.
“But this is just a political border. Those of us who live on the border don’t care about it really,” Albers says with a smile.
We agree to meet again the next day. He will tell me the history of the mountain region, Storlien and Storlien Högfjällshotell mountain resort.
The hotel is only 300 metres from the railway station. I have been here before. In my youth. That was during one of the resort’s golden eras when there could be 1,000 people inside and live music from several stages.
We would go alpine skiing in the day and secretly check out Swedish boys at the after ski.
As a mature adult, I now prioritise a walk along “Blomsterstigen” – the flower trail – this afternoon. It is misty and a light drizzle, but that does not stop me from breathing in the clear mountain air.
“The miracle doctor”
Dr. Ernst Westerlund, known as the miracle doctor, came to Storlien for the first time in 1883. He was inspired by various health resorts, including in Switzerland, and was looking for a high-altitude location that could be suitable as a health resort.
He found Storlien, bought a plot of land and built the Nya hotel which opened in 1888.
Westerlund believed in fresh air, physical activity and for patients to take an active part in their own recovery.
They would go for walks in high altitudes, and a network of trails was laid out around Storlien, includingBlomsterstigen, with benches where patients could rest along the way.
Returned to Storlien
Sophie Nilsson came to Storlien for the first time in 2015. She was 19, had just finished her upper secondary education and was about to spend the season working as a waitress at the mountain hotel.
She thought Storlien was right outside Åre. It was only when she arrived that she realised that there was still a one hour drive left to get there.
“But I fell in love with both Storlien and the hotel. It was love at first sight,” she says.
When the hotel closed down in 2018, she moved to Stockholm. A few years later, she moved back to Storlien. She first worked as a ski lift attendant, and then at the local store.
Storlien Högfjällshotell – key historical milestones
1882–1883: Mellanriksbanan railway between Östersund and Trondheim opens, giving tourism in Storlien a boost. The first hotel in the area was built as early as in 1883.
1933–1935: The need for more beds led to the planning for a large mountain hotel being drawn up in Easter 1933. The new hotel was completed and inaugurated on Midsummer’s Eve in 1935.
1942: Sweden’s second-ever ski lift opened in Storlien. This helped establish the village as a popular winter sports destination.
Later decades: The hotel was expanded in several stages, had various owners and served as an important meeting place for both Swedes and Norwegians.
2023: The hotel closed down in 2018. Four years later, Hans Bark bought the hotel and associated properties through his company Sidsjö Fastigheter AB. The historic hotel reopened in February 2023.
Sources: Guide Roger Albers; Storlien Högfjällshotell; Visit Storlien.
When the hotel got new owners, she became involved in recruiting staff. Now, she is the hotel manager and is responsible for a business that is open year round.
The hotel has 34 full-time staff all year, and that number doubles in the winter season when ski lifts, the ski school and ski hire open.
Most staff are Swedish. Nilsson would like to see more Norwegians working at the hotel.
There are 56 benches along Blomsterstigen. Crown Princess Viktoria and Prince Daniel were given a bench when they got married in 2010. In 1933, Prince Gustaf Adolf and Princesse Sibylla were gifted a cabin near Storlien Högfjällshotell for their wedding by the «Skidfrämjandet» association. The cabin is still owned by the royal family and often in use.
Housing is one of the biggest bottlenecks. The holiday-home market pushes prices up, making it difficult for many to buy property.
The municipal housing company Årehus is planning to build 12 new rental flats, with the option to build more later. Demand is considerable.
Will stay in Storlien
Sanna Partanen arrived in Storlien 16 years ago to work as a ski instructor for one season. She stayed. Today, she is head of sports for the hotel and lives in Storlien with her husband and children. Her husband is a cross-border commuter who works in Meråker.
She has never really considered working in Norway herself.
“It is practical not to do it because of the children,” she says.
Local kindergarten availability has been a determining factor for the family. A municipal kindergarten was established in Storlien in 2021/2022.
“This means that you don’t necessarily have to move from Storlien if you have children. This is very important also when you want to recruit workers and get people to settle here.
In the borderlands
After a long day with many good conversations at Storlien Högfjällshotell, I am soon ready to finish my trip to the borderlands. I am taking the Meråker line back to Trondheim (yes, the train is running!).
Before I leave, I have time for a short trip in the mountains. First, I cross the E14 road by the customs station. It is quiet. No controls.
I follow one of the marked paths. It goes upwards. The aim is Steinfjellet, 909 metres above sea level.
Once more, I pass a riksrøys. Only these cairns show where the border is. I see them – and walk on.
